Few places in the world make me want to get up at dawn. I'm not a morning person, I never have been. Yet, in the California desert, a kind of magic pulls me out of bed at the first light, makes me rush outside to see the sun rise over this gigantic rocky expanse.
The desert has a unique and inexplicable charm. You discover a singular landscape, you experience a gentle change of scenery that makes you want to return. Me, despite the oppressive heat that is an integral part of desert life, I've been captivated by it three times now.
For the first few days, I'm staying in Twentynine Palms. I'm a little over two hours from Los Angeles, at the edge of Joshua Tree National Park, where I plan to go every day to explore its arid landscapes, dotted with cacti and yuccas. Around the house, the desert stretches as far as the eye can see. It's indescribable.
To avoid the midday heat, I head to Joshua Tree National Park early. It's springtime – the intense heat hasn't arrived yet, and the cacti are in bloom. It's the perfect time to visit the park!
Several hiking trails crisscross the park, offering something for every experience level. Feeling ready for a challenge, I embark on a 3-hour round-trip hike to discover the Fortynine Palms oasis. After a brisk but not overly strenuous climb, I see the trail descend towards an oasis nestled among the mountains. I enjoy a picnic in the shade of the palm trees before beginning the return journey.
Breathless but satisfied, I drive through part of the park. I admire the flowering cacti of the Cholla Cactus Garden, then cross a vast valley where hundreds of Joshua trees stand, named after a biblical figure because they appear to raise their arms to the sky in prayer. Finally, I arrive at Keys View, on the other side of the park. At my feet stretches the immense and magnificent Coachella Valley. In the distance, in the shadow of Mount San Jacinto, I can make out the city of Palm Springs, where I will soon be.
It is with regret that I leave my lovely retreat in the middle of the desert, but I am eager to discover my next destination. Palm Springs is like an artificial oasis, a city whose very presence in the middle of the desert seems improbable and unusual.
At one time, Palm Springs was a beloved vacation spot for Hollywood's biggest names. From Elvis Presley to Frank Sinatra to Elizabeth Taylor, they all came to soak up the sun and enjoy the unforgettable parties held there. After this golden age, the city lost some of its luster, becoming popular mainly with retirees. But today, Palm Springs is rising from the ashes to once again become a must-visit vacation destination, prized for its glamorous atmosphere and slightly kitschy charm.
I'm checking into the Ace Hotel, a lively and decidedly cool hotel housed in a completely revamped old motel. Its restaurant, King's Highway, offers delicious local dishes at any time of day.
After settling in, I set off to discover the gems of modernist architecture that Palm Springs abounds in. Several guided tours are available for architecture and design enthusiasts, but I chose to explore on my own through the city streets, lined with houses boasting clean lines. Along Palm Canyon Drive, I stopped at antique furniture and object shops, where I found a mid-century lamp that I knew I'd find a way to bring back to Montreal.
In the evening, I decided to treat myself a little and headed to Mr. Lyons, a steakhouse that more than deserves its status as an institution. As I slid onto one of its green velvet banquettes, I felt like I'd stepped back in time and found myself looking for Frank Sinatra.
After a delicious meal, I decided to have one last drink before heading back to the hotel. I discovered the Bootlegger Tiki, a tiny speakeasy decorated in Polynesian style. The bartender recommended a fruity cocktail, which I enjoyed in its cozy atmosphere.
In the morning, I visited the Moorten Botanical Garden, a lush garden that offers a vibrant tribute to desert flora. This cactus-filled haven is actually a private garden, the brainchild of Patricia and Chester Moorten, two nature lovers. The garden began in the 1930s and has grown steadily ever since. Today, it is managed by Clark Moorten, the son of its founders. For a small fee, visitors can wander along its shaded paths and explore its charming cactus greenhouse.
I then jumped in my car to discover another treasure of the California desert: Salvation Mountain. After an hour and a half's drive, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, I finally saw a surreal, multicolored hill rise before me. Salvation Mountain was the work of a lifetime for its creator, Leonard Knight, until his death in 2014. He conceived it as a tribute to God, but you don't need to be religious to be impressed by the grandeur of this sculpture in the desert landscape.
Moved, I head back to Palm Springs. Returning to the hotel, I take advantage of the balmy late afternoon to relax by the pool, a cocktail in hand. The sun dips behind Mount San Jacinto, and I think to myself that I could easily stay here forever!
Catherine Ostiguy, guest blogger
Photo credit: Catherine Ostiguy
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