Lose yourself under the spell of Lisbon

Between its streets of brilliantly stacked stones, which guide us beneath imposing yellow, pink, and azulejo walls, Lisbon is proud and proud . Worthy of the great cities of Europe, it abounds with history and prestige. It stands tall amidst its rolling hills. I wander through the colorful city without knowing a single neighborhood. Without expectation or prejudice, I open my eyes and ears wide. I greet everyone with a "Hola," and the shopkeepers who approach me on their doorsteps respond with broad smiles.

I know the heart of the city lies near the river, so I descend the winding hills, glad I won't have to climb them again – the popular Tram 28 will do the work for me. I arrive at Praça do Comércio , now a large central square crowned by a statue of King José I, which was once the Ribeira Palace, destroyed in the 1755 earthquake. This vast space in the very center of the old town is captivating, not only for its size but especially for the ring of neoclassical buildings that graces it. There are plenty of places to eat and drink.

My favorite spot remains the quay along the river. No chairs. No tables. No service. Unpretentious, feet dangling in the air. I sit on this concrete quay, which offers me a front-row seat to one of the city's most beautiful scenes. The sun is ending its day, setting peacefully over the magnificent Ponto 25 de April. Since Portugal allows drinking in its streets, a vinho verde accompanies me, and I have that happy exhaustion on my cheeks from smiling so much.

The next day, as I continued my aimless wanderings through Lisbon , I stumbled upon a charming shop reminiscent of a 1950s circus. Covering the walls from top to bottom were hundreds of cans of sardines in every imaginable flavor. Four salesmen staffed the shop, hands clasped behind their backs, like street sweeper salesmen ready to advise you on the best brand in town.

I opt for the sardines in teriyaki sauce and continue my stroll to an excellent tapas restaurant, By the Wine . Its ceiling is entirely made of empty wine bottles, stacked one on top of the other. The walls are made of wood and stone, giving the impression of being in a tavern. We swapped the beer mugs for a selection of fine local wines. The people there are attractive, the service discreet but impeccable. The waiter brings me some sparkling rosé, Lancers Bruto Rosé . Portuguese, fresh, and delicious. The restaurant offers various tapas, from the popular Bacalhau (cod) to octopus, including numerous charcuterie items and an excellent melting goat cheese. I notice that the charcuterie is sliced directly from a large piece of meat at the back of the bar. As they prepare a Bloody Caesar, the bartenders at By the Wine slice the charcuterie as it is ordered.

Time is getting on, and I decide to take a taxi to Bairro Alto . My driver, who doesn't speak a word of English but wears a beret (which excuses all his shortcomings), drops me off somewhere random. He says "sunset" in Portuguese. In this little slice of life, there's live jazz music and numerous small "food truck" style bistros, which we'll call "wine trucks" for obvious reasons. Young lovers are sitting on the ground, legs crossed, facing each other. They're kissing without a thought for tomorrow. Under this rosy sun, you can't blame them.

In my opinion, Lisbon is the kind of place you visit as your heart desires, without preparation or a schedule. You have to surrender to it to truly love it. That way, you stumble upon the right place at the right time. In this city, every nook and cranny is a good place and a good time. In tiny streets, I saw little old ladies hanging their laundry from the ^fourth floor of their turquoise-green apartments, and I was fascinated. I saw people wanting to help me when, map in hand, I crossed the streets. They spoke to me in Portuguese, and I quickly realized that my reply, " Excuse me , I don't understand Portuguese, " wasn't going to stop them. They wouldn't let me go until I pretended to understand. So I took many wrong turns, which led me to the best viewpoints in the city, the "Miraduros" of Portugal.

So, in Lisbon, for once, let's lose our bearings.

Stéphanie Bureau

Winner of the 4 destinations, 1 blogger contest.

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