Hawaii: The paradise destination everyone dreams of. The deep blue sea, ancient volcanoes, crazy surfers, fragrant flower leis, the classic Hawaiian experience.
But beyond its picture-perfect landscapes, what happened to give Hawaii the reputation of being the ultimate dream destination for southern travelers? It's a question worth asking… The island is absolutely brimming with stunning beaches, each more magnificent than the last. Surely there must be something more? And there is, I can confirm. The Aloha spirit (Aloha Lifestyle) certainly plays a part.
I had the privilege of visiting Hawaii twice before writing this. So this is my third stop in the Hawaiian archipelago. Over ten years ago, I visited two of the eight main islands, Oahu and Maui. At that time, we didn't have children. I remember thinking that when I did have them, it would be a fantastic place to take them on vacation, for a thousand and one reasons (reasons that have changed considerably since we had two children… get me a glass of white wine!).
This winter, we were looking for a destination that could host us for a month and a half once elementary school was out. Several criteria were on our wish list, but in the end, it all boiled down to one thing: absolute chill-out. It was the obvious choice: it would be Hawaii; it would be Oahu.
After packing suitcases full of super useful things as usual (I brought my brushes and watercolors in case I felt inspired by the flowers of Hawaiian dancers and their coconut bras – I know, I'm crazy like that), we take off for Vancouver.
Vancouver-Honolulu: 5 hours 30 minutes precisely.
Leaving the airport, the scents of frangipani and Tahitian tiare flowers wafting through the heavy air make us forget the lack of sleep and the jet lag that's starting to affect the two children's temperaments (and mine, for that matter): "Mommy! She touched my leg! Mommy, he farted while waiting for the suitcases!" At that precise moment, I'm glad they speak French so they can blend in with all the English speakers. But flatulence speaks for itself… and it's a pretty international language. Let's get outta here, I'm at my wit's end.
We're fleeing Honolulu airport for quieter, wilder lands, heading to our condo on Oahu.
Due to the 6-hour time difference, I'm up at dawn.
The landscape is picture-perfect. Behind us stretch mountains born from volcanic eruptions thousands of years ago. Volcanic rocks are still clearly visible everywhere here, draped in a verdant, carpet-like mantle. This is still what I love most about Hawaii.
I gaze at the mountain of volcanic rock covered in vegetation from our bedroom window and am treated to a concert of every bird in the world gathered on a single branch in our backyard. It even ends with a rooster (actually, it goes on and on). Wild chickens are EVERYWHERE here. At 5 a.m. Every morning. It's almost as if they're saying to me, "Get up, Sunday traveler, you're missing out," and for good reason. Magical morning. How magnificent this view is, almost prehistoric. The sounds of the awakening rainforest, like in Tarzan and Jane. In fact, I'm waking up my own inner Tarzan, ready to go exploring.
First stop: Makaha Beach, just a stone's throw away. We hadn't even parked yet before the kids were jumping into the water. Golden sand, crystal-clear sea, no shells or coral to worry about, requiring those unflattering little beach shoes that clash with the pale legs of a newly arrived traveler. Not many people around: just a few locals. In fact, it's always impressive to realize that in Hawaii, even on a weekday, it's possible to have a slice of paradise all to ourselves. There are countless beaches everywhere you go. That's why our swimsuits are always in the trunk of the car. You never know when the urge to take a dip will strike. No plans for vacationers on the run!
We drove towards Three Tables Beach, the wind in our hair, our main goal being to have a picnic. Every sandwich in the world tastes better with this view, right? It's a beach where you can see three flat rocks (hence the name Three Tables), rising from the surface not far from the shore. We settled down thinking we'd only stay for lunch, but the spot turned out to be perfect for spending the afternoon. Snorkels and masks were very useful since marine life teemed underwater near these three rocky tables. Colorful fish, coral, and sea urchins hidden in the rock crevices amazed both children and parents. There were waves that were fun enough to play with, but nothing dangerous. Between the picnic overlooking the sea, the colorful introduction to snorkeling, and the children surfing the waves tirelessly, it was pure family bliss on this beach beloved by locals.
In my best memories of Oahu, I remember jumping off a rock on the island's north shore. It's Waimea Bay. Easily accessible and not too strenuous to climb, this spot, well-known to locals, is often crowded with daring young Hawaiians eager to impress with their aerial acrobatics, which sometimes end in spectacular flat-outs, leaving marks resembling a sunburn on a newly arrived tourist. My jump is rather conservative, but I jump nonetheless! It's not very dangerous if you jump with both feet together. I probably look like an ostrich learning to fly, but it's the thought that counts, and my children are very proud of their little mom. The highest point of the rock is nearly 10 meters high, enough to make the knees of an overconfident, muscular man snap. The highlight is the rock jump: for young and old alike!
Why not take a stroll by the pool on the way back… Shark's Cove is just a stone's throw from Three Tables Beach!
This natural pool is a calm, waveless spot for those who want to soak up the warm sun without too much stress. Don't be put off by the intimidating name: what you see are rocky outcrops, not shark fins. Bring a mask and snorkel if you're a freediving enthusiast: there are some impressive schools of fish. The shallow water makes it easy for all types of swimmers to venture in safely. Even well-groomed grandmothers will find it enjoyable. There are no waves, and you can take a refreshing dip without ruining your hairstyle. However, if possible, bring your beach shoes to avoid the volcanic rocks and coral you have to walk through to reach the center of the pool, where the water is crystal clear and the bottom is sandy, free of coral and rocks.
This is a golden opportunity to learn more and, at the same time, indulge in sweet, juicy pineapples from the fields lining the road to the plantation. There are several attractions, including a train ($) that takes you into the fields, but the popularity of the place means there's a 30-minute wait. Since we didn't want to use up our time and weren't looking for the typical tourist experience, we visited the free outdoor exhibits showcasing the different types of pineapples grown at DOLE.
Haleiwa is one of my favorite villages. There, you really feel the Hawaiian vibe, the kind that transports you and makes you realize you're in Hawaii, right in the middle of the Pacific. It's also a historic village where the surf spots are a local favorite. A charming village to stroll around, eat good food (typically Hawaiian or otherwise), have a drink with the sun on your face, visit surf shops, and admire the hand-painted murals all over Haleiwa. A must for relaxing after a salty day. The typical "shave ice" can be found everywhere in the village, but we prefer the one in Matsumoto, despite the long, drawn-out line to get some. Patience, vacationers!
We ended this perfect day with a legendary chocolate, coconut, and cream tart from Ted's Bakery. Sold whole or in individual slices, they're ideal for taking to nearby Sunset Beach. A memorable sunset, sitting on the sand with a slice of local tart: pure bliss!
The sun sets, and so do we! Because tomorrow, the adventure continues…
Stéphanie Renière , guest blogger
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