Porto, like a summer kitchen

The city of Porto reminds me of New Year's Eve at the Busque's, the atmosphere is so inviting. You knock on the door in Porto and it's as if Aunt Joan of Arc herself is opening it and saying, "Finally, the big visit!" with the smell of pâté threatening to whet your appetite at any moment. In Porto, it's the same. They cook sardines on the grill as a traditional dish, they strum the guitar to tunes from our grandparents' era, and, above all, they invite you to swing the crate in the back of the wooden box.

During this short trip, I sit at tables with people I barely know, and when they invite me to swig, I say yes. A touch of nostalgia settles in. Here are three stops in Porto that bring back childhood memories.

First stop: Museu D'Avo

In this restaurant, I met Constança, a Portuguese woman whose happiness was evident in her smile, but even more so in her eyes. The atmosphere of Museo D'Avo perfectly embodies the word "cozy": "inviting relaxation through its gentleness." Its walls are charming with their antique wallpaper, and its wooden chairs evoke the summer kitchens of old houses. The pendulum clocks that span the room are identical to the one that adorned the living room wall at Grandpa Busque's house. The decor inspires a glass of red wine among the many candles that flicker in the dim light. The menu is varied, yet traditional. A Caldo Verde soup, an icon of Portuguese chowder, made with potatoes, beans, and chorizo, would warm even the coldest evenings of our Quebec winters.

Second stop : Parque das Virtudes and Porta 4

Fanny, from Quebec, a friend of a friend who now lives in Porto, suggests we meet at the Parque das Virtudes waterfront. We'll casually squeeze in between two couples. The sun is setting over the popular Douro River after a long day spent traveling the world. Afterwards, we'll head to the restaurant of her partner, chef and co-owner, at La Porta 4.

Copyright: dreammakerphotography

A place I'd call miniature in terms of size, but gigantic when you consider all the love that goes into the dishes, carefully created each day. With only four small square tables for seating, it's hard to miss the spectacle of the seasoned chef behind his modest counter. The place reminds me of our first student pub crawls: replace the lager with a judicious selection of local wines, and the peanut butter bread with monkfish tail and cauliflower. It's official; this place has won my heart.

Third stop : Apartment 219B on Rua do Instituto

June 23, 2018: Like our beloved Saint John the Baptist Day, the Portuguese celebrate São Juão and raise a toast (or several) to life. Constança, whom I met earlier, invites me to celebrate at the home of some distant acquaintances. I bring a few bottles of wine and some sardines that we'll grill over the fire. I say goodbye to my fish as I place them on the hot grill—from the grocery store to the apartment was enough to make me grow attached to these little creatures. In the backyard, strangers turned friends share snippets of anecdotes. The sun sets as the atmosphere heats up. On this national holiday, generations come together to become one single mass of festive humanity. Folk music fills the air, feet pound the ground, arms intertwine as if mimicking our Quebecois square dances.

We then wandered through the streets of Porto, where sardines grilled on either side of the half-open doors of the houses. The typical music, with its lyrics known to everyone, played on repeat. It sounded like a Portuguese version of "The Little Frog Said to the Toad." Constança translated the lyrics for me, and I realized I was getting strangely close to the truth. Decorations in the colors of Portugal adorned the streets, which were already naturally beautiful. Night fell without warning. I could swear I was 18 years old, on the Plains of Abraham, on Midsummer's Eve.

Early in the morning, it's time to pack up.

A smile appears on my lips without me really asking for it.

It's so nice and warm, just like in our old houses.

Stéphanie Bureau

Winner of the 4 destinations, 1 blogger contest.

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